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SOUTH TO TARANTO South of Alberobello and
Martina Franca country roads pass through
woodland down to the coast.
Taranto is a large city and port,
about 45 minutes distant. It has an interesting
and atmospheric, if slightly decrepit, historic
centre, and is important for its archaeological
museum, best in the south outside Naples, but
currently under reconstruction and with a reduced
sample of exhibits on display in its temporary
home. The Duomo, dating back to the 11th century,
has a particularly fine Baroque chapel. A walk
through the Centro Storico takes you through
narrow alleys past old Pallazzi, many of which
are in need of, or are receiving, restoration.
From the island a walk over the bridge eastwards
takes you to the modern centre, with tree-lined
promenades giving views to sea and inwards over
the Mare Piccolo - a huge inland waterway - a
restful tree-filled park, and an elegant shopping
centre.
To the west of
Taranto there are stretches of fine beach for a
hundred kilometers and more. About 40 kilometers
from Taranto is Metapontum, with some interesting
Greek and Roman ruins, a museum, and a fine sand
lido.
THE GRAVINA
COUNTRY
From Metapontium
inland the road stretches through dry hillsides
up to Matera, a town built on the edge
of a ravine. Matera is famous for its sassi,
until the 1950s these were infamous ghettoes of
disease-ridden cave dwellings. Today it is
considerably cleaned up, whilst still retaining a
wild character. A particularly interesting
feature is the group of churches cut into the
rocks. Although rock churches can be found spread
throughout the region, many dating as far back as
the 13th century, and many with original cave
wall frescoes, Matera has the greatest
concentration, and they are easily visited. The
views from Matera over the ravine are dramatic.
Laterza also stands on a ravine.
The best views are from the ravine nature reserve
(Oasi Gravina di Laterza). With just a five
minute stay you can reach a spectacular viewpoint
over the large canyon, but the ravine-top walk
(up to 8 kilometers) provides further staggering
views, as well as being of interest to
nature-lovers, and is highly recommended.
Between Laterza
and Alberobello there are the towns of Massafra, built on a ravine, and Mottola. Around both these towns
are rock churches with frescoes from the 12th to
15th century.
The landscape and
its ravines also play an important part in the
location of other interesting towns such as
Massafra, but notably in Gravina in Puglia, again in a breathtaking
position. Gravina has a fascinating historical
centre, with a fine piazza and Duomo overlooking
the ravine. A walk can be taken by the old bridge
over the ravine, and on the far side there is an
area of archaeological park with old rock tombs.
From the museum tours can be taken of the town's
rock churches.
Nearby, the town
of Altamura, although in a lonely
landscape, has a city centre with a fine
cathedral. On the way back from a trip to Gravina
and Altamura the extensive Forest Mercadente, between Altamura and
Cassano, provides over 1000 hectares of
attractive woodland with miles of tracks to
explore.
More day trips
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